Savouring Solitude

To spend purposeful time alone is a joy and a privilege. To spend purposeful time alone on the Isle of Skye is complete bliss.

Welcome to savouring solitude, a solo travel series about spending joyful time alone. Travelling solo is something I adore and I’ve been lucky enough to travel to several countries and continents with just myself for company.

‘The happiest of all lives is a busy solitude’’ Voltaire

I’m sure we all recognise the difference between being alone and being lonely, and I feel fortunate that my life is full of wonderful people and so my aloneness is only ever temporary. In the same breath though I know that prioritising alone time makes me a better friend, family member and partner for those people. As with many things, the joy here comes from choice. I am choosing to be alone for this time, and that choice is a huge privilege.

This time, Scotland called, as it so often does, and I answered. And so began a 3 day road trip through the Scottish highlands to a Scottish island. The Isle of Skye has been on my bucket list for many many years now and I can safely say that it lived up to every expectation. For me, this road trip was about exploring Skye, of course, but also about slowing down, appreciating every moment and, of course, savouring solitude. If you have the option, I truly couldn’t recommend it more.

So here is my 3 day itinerary for the Isle of Skye! There are so many things to do on this island, and I’m sure you could fit a lot more in than I did but I have to say it was pretty luxurious having some time to just *enjoy* a slower pace, enjoy my air bnb and, of course, to savour solitude.

I went to Skye in October which was such a beautiful time of year. The summer crowds had dissipated but it wasn’t yet quiet enough for business or restaurants to have shut for the winter season. Plus there were enough people around to feel safe when walking/travelling alone (good to think about as though I want to spend time by myself, I don’t want to feel completely isolated). It also meant the roads were much quieter than I’ve heard they can be in summer.*

DAY 1 | Edinburgh- Dunkeld- Skye

Driving from Edinburgh to Skye takes just over 5 hours, and whilst it’s the most beautiful drive through the long and winding roads of the Cairngorms and Scottish highlands, it’s also a good idea to stop along the way. I chose to stop in Dunkeld which is about 90 minutes from Edinburgh. I visited the Hermitage, where you can spend a little time wandering through the douglas firs (some of the tallest in Britain) to Black Linn Falls. After your walk head down to the town for breakfast, lunch or a little car snack at Aran Bakery. I would HIGHLY recommend the focaccia sandwiches.

After that, continue your drive through Scotland then over the bridge to Skye. I checked into my air bnb which you can find here, and which I couldn’t recommend more. It’s well situated in the middle of the island and the huge glass front makes waking up in the morning total magic. Plus there’s an exceptionally friendly cat.

I arrived when it was already dark, so settled in for a quiet evening with a big bowl of chilli, tomato prawn pasta and several episodes of gilmore girls.

Key points:

• Dunkeld Hermitage
• Aran Bakery
  

DAY 2 | Fairy Pool

For my first full day in Skye I *could* have decided to get up early and get to my destinations before the crowds (and if you go in summer then to be honest I would probably recommend this) but instead I got up early and decided to make a cup of tea, read my book and watch the sunrise. Magic may not exist, but waking up in the isle of skye, somewhere I’ve wanted to visit for almost a decade, was pretty damn close. A pretty glorious start to the day if you ask me.

Then my first stop was Café Cùil, a gorgeous eatery located in the middle of the island serving Hebridean brunch and lunch inspired by the island’s wild landscape. It’s a must-eat on the island. I had the beef brisket toastie, and the pumpkin pie pancakes!

Just along the road you will find the iconic Fairy Pools. Some say it’s a tourist trap, others say it’s a must-see- I say it’s probably somewhere in between. It wasn’t quite as impressive as I had imagined (although some of that is to do with the fact that the whole island is so impressive as a whole that there’s a lot to compete with), but it was very very lovely to wander along the water and the surrounding mountains are completely gorgeous.

If you’re brave enough I’d also highly recommend a dip, though be warned, the water is GLACIAL! Totally worth it though, the buzz is incredible.

There are a few different walk options here ranging from about 40 minutes to 2 1/2 hours. In general I’d say to note that you do have to walk to the pools from the carpark so the minimum walk is about 40 minutes so just bear that in mind in terms of accessibility.

After that I drove down to Glenbrittle beach, where you can walk along the rocky sand or just grab a hot chocolate from the campsite cafe and admire the views (this is what I did).

Dinner in the evening was at The Stein Inn and I couldn’t recommend it more. Ultimate cosy vibes in a dimly lit stone cottage with a hot fire and freshly caught seafood from the loch the restaurant overlooks. I had the seafood chowder to start followed by the langoustine. Both are a must, the langoustine in particular are the best I’ve ever had. Perfectly sweet and juicy with a herby white wine sauce and a generous portion of fries to mop it all up. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Key Points

• Brunch at Café Cùil
• Fairy pools walk
• Dinner at The Stein Inn
  

DAY 3 | Old Man of Storr & Portree

If I have ever experienced a more beautiful morning than waking up, not only to the glorious sun rising over the mountains of the Isle of Skye, but also to the first dustings of this season's snow on the caps of said mountains, then I can’t remember. This was my last full day on the island and my goal was to see as much of it as I could, even if I couldn’t stop off everywhere.

I started with brunch at Birch Coffee in Portree where you should get the scrambled eggs on toast (with chorizo, lacto-fermented chilli & parmesan) and a hot coffee. It’s a small place but if you hang around a table or stool will become available.

This fuelled me for the hike up to the Old Man of Storr, another favourite with tourists and locals alike and a really beautiful hike. I had almost every weather you could think of whilst walking but that only added to the experience, and the every-changing views. It’s not long in distance but is fairly steep so can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on how often you stop.

After that I decided to drive around the northern peninsular, over the Quiraing (another good walk if you have time, which I didn’t), and down to Uig which I don’t think needs to be a high priority on your stop off list, but if you’re driving that way then you do get nice views. I circled back to Portree where I wandered the small independent shops and admired the brightly coloured houses in the harbour.

Dinner was at Scorrybreac, also in Portree and it is wonderful! Right by the harbour, it’s fine dining in the least pretentious way. Thoughtful small plates curated by chef Calum Munro use local and seasonal ingredients and the menu suits solo diners as much as it does those who are sharing plates (please note I have a large appetite, so this also helps). The restaurant itself isn’t the most beautiful to look at, opting for simple, minimalist, relaxed vibes instead and the staff are exceptionally friendly. A slightly higher price point but in my opinion very much worth it.

Key points

• Brunch at Birch Coffee
• Walk to the Old Man of Storr
• Drive over the Quiraing
• Wander Portree harbour and shops
• Dinner at Scorrybreac
  

DAY 4 | Leaving Skye

With the inevitable drive back down south on the cards, I left Skye in the morning but not before a final stop at Lean To Coffee which is on the way out of town anyway. Get a cheesy toastie, a sweet treat and a coffee to stifle some of the sadness you’ll feel at leaving this incredible island.

My final recommendation is to stop at Eileen Castle once you’ve driven over the bridge and are back on the mainland. It’s majestic and even if you don’t pay to go in, you can admire the views from the carpark.

Key Points

• Lean To Coffee
• Eileen Castle

You still have the journey back through Scotland to enjoy and then, as Wordsworth says

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o'er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.
For oft, when on my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood,
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude;
And then my heart with pleasure fills,
And dances with the daffodils.

Solo travel really is the gift that keeps on giving. Not only do you enjoy the journey while you’re on it, but you get to relive it again and again each time you’re alone.

If you go, please do let me know, and I hope you have the most wonderful time.

BIG LOVE, as always,

Eleanor x